Indonesia May 2005

In late May and early June, 2005, I made my second trip to the Mentawais in Western Sumatra, Indonesia. This time with some friends aboard the surf charter Pelagic .

Glossary of Surf Terms

We started the trip with a very healthy swell at a place affectionately called "The Hole" -- a big hollow left. I left some soft tissue on the reef. We surfed mostly lefts, but some fun rights as well. We got a spot called Lighthouse solid double overhead and really fun. We surfed Bravos (also known as Rags Left) head high to DOH and pumping. My friend Skylar charged big crowded and super hollow Lances Right while I found a more "playful" and empty right just up the way from it. The Pelagic crew were awesome, not hesitating to move a lot to find perfect surf.

We had a great photog who shot all digital in the water, on the tender and on land. He handed me a CD with all my shots as I walked off the boat: David Collier . The best shots he got of me are below.

After getting my share of perfect waves (and damage on the reef), I decided to leave a few days early to get back to work and the family. This entailed a hairy four hour crossing in a tiny hired speedboat driven by guys that looked (and smelled) kinda scary but turned out to be really cool. We hit two nasty squalls on the crossing -- the sky would turn dark and then it seemed like rain and waves were coming at us from every direction. The little boat had no radio or GPS, just a rusty compass. Every time we made it through a full deluge alive, the captain, all drenched, would flash a toothless smile and give me a high five.

Lots of fun. Glad I survived. The swell was a lot bigger and more consistent this time of year. Next time I may opt for the 120 foot Indies Trader IV , queen sized beds in the staterooms and a helicopter for the crossing.